The information in this section is reproduced from Mark W. Nolting's book, Africa's Top Wildlife Countries, Revised 6th Edition. This content cannot be reproduced without authorization of the author. To purchase Mark's book, please visit: www.africa-adventure.com/dsp_products.html.

RWANDA Introduction Wildlife and Wildlife Area Parc National des Volcans Gorilla Trekking Mountain Climbing Accommodation Gisenyi Kibuye

UGANDA Introduction Wildlife and Wildlife Area Bwindi Impenatrable Forest National Park Gorilla Trekking Accommodation Mgahinga Gorilla National Park Accommodation

Appropriately called "The Country of a Thousand Hills," Rwanda is predominantly grassy uplands and hills, with altitudes above sea level varying from a low of 3,960 feet (1,207 m) to Mt. Karisimbi, the highest of a range of extinct volcanoes in the northwest, which reaches 14,786 feet (4,507 m). Lake Kivu forms part of the border with the Congo and is one of the most beautiful lakes in Africa.

Also called "The Country of Perpetual Spring," Rwanda's comfortable climate is temperate and mild with an average daytime temperature of 77°F (25°C). The main rainy season is from mid-February to mid-May, and the shorter one is from mid-October to mid-December.

Almost all (97%) of the people live in self-contained compounds and work the adjacent land. Over half of the population is Christian (most of which are Catholic), though many people follow traditional African beliefs. Hutu (Bahutu) and Tutsi (Batutsi) tribes make up the majority of the population. The Tutsi have long dominated the Hutu farmers in feudal system analogous to that of medieval England. The system was based on cattle and its size was surpassed in Africa only by Ethiopia.

Based on its physical isolation and fearsome reputation of its people, Rwanda was not affected by the slave and ivory trade from Zanzibar in the 1800s. The area became a German protectorate in 1899 and in 1916 was occupied by the Belgians.

Following World War I, Rwanda and Burundi were mandated by the League of Nations to Belgium as the territory of Ruanda-Urundi. Full independence for Rwanda and Burundi was achieved on July 1, 1962.

In 1994, a civil war (actually begun in 1990) between the Hutus and the Tutsis resulted in over a million deaths and even more refugees fleeing to neighboring Congo and Tanzania. The Tutsi forces were victorious, and many refugees have returned.

As of this writing, security in Rwanda has stabilized considerably, and international tourists are returning to gorilla trek in Parc National des Volcans and to visit other areas of the country. Before visiting Rwanda, be sure to check the current security situation.

High population density is at the root of Rwanda’s economic problems. Almost all arable land is under cultivation. Coffee is the country’s
major export.

French, English, and Kinyarwanda are widely spoken, and Kiswahili is spoken in the major towns and regions close to the borders of Uganda and Tanzania. Tourism is an important foreign exchange earner for the country.

Mountain gorilla trekking in Volcano National Park is by far Rwanda’s major international attraction. After the release of the feature film, Gorillas in the Mist, about the late Dian Fossey’s pioneering work habituating the gorillas, interest in gorilla trekking reached new heights.

Volcano National Park is home to the mountain gorilla, first documented by Europeans in the early 1900s. The peaks of the Virunga Mountains, heavily forested extinct volcanoes, serve as a border with the Congo and Uganda and are part of the watershed between the Congo and Nile river systems.

The 48-square-mile (125-km2) park supports several vegetation zones, from lush bamboo stands to luxuriant mountain forest to Afro-alpine. From 8,500 to 11,000 feet (2,590 to 3,350 m), primary forest is dominated by hagenia trees growing 30-60 feet (9-18 m) in height. Hagenia have twisted trunks and low branches covered with lichen, out of which epiphytic orchids, moss and ferns often grow.

Volcano National Park borders both Virunga National Park in the Congo and the Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in Uganda. The park receives a high amount of rainfall, over 70 inches (1,800 mm) per year. Daytime temperatures at Park Headquarters average about 70°F (21°C).

Other wildlife in the park includes the golden monkey (a rare subspecies of blue monkey), black-fronted duiker (very common), bushbuck and buffalo. Over 90 species of birds have been recorded, including spectacular mountain turacos (the Rwenzori turaco is the most common) and forest francolin.

The mountain gorilla grows to over 6 feet (2 m) in height and weighs more than 440 pounds (200 kg). The four gorilla groups currently acclimated for tourist visits are Group Sabyinyo, Group Susa, the Amahoro Group and Group 13. Group Sabyino, Group Susa and the Amahoro Group may be visited by up to eight tourists each day, while Group 13 may be visited by a maximum of six tourists per day.

As of this writing, the makeup of the gorilla groups were as follows: the Susa Group — 35 members including two silverbacks; The Sabyinyo Group — 13 individuals including the largest of the silverbacks; The Amahroro Group — 14 members including one silverback; Group 13 — 11 members including one silverback (it had 13 members during the 1980s, when the group was habituated). Visitors to Group Amahoro meet at Bushororo; Group Susa meet at Gashinga or Cundura; Group Sabyinyo gather between Karandaryi and Ayindishyira; Group 13 at Ayindishyira.

Children under 15 years of age are not allowed to visit the gorillas. Permits must be purchased in advance in Kigali, and a copy of the first three pages of a visitor’s passport must be presented at the time of purchase.

Check-in at Park Headquarters is between 7:00 and 8:00 a.m., near Kinigi village, which is a 20-minute drive from Ruhengeri. Be sure to have your voucher before making the 30- to 40-minute (up to 10-mi./16-km) drive to departure points where the searches begin. Visitors must meet their guides at the designated departure points no later than 9:00 a.m.

The most popular time to visit the gorillas is during the dry seasons, which occur mid-June-September and December-March. It is difficult to get to the park and departure points unless you join a tour (the best option) or rent your own vehicle (expensive). There is no public transportation from Ruhengeri to the Park Headquarters or to the trek departure points.

Hiking in the beautiful Virunga Mountains is an adventure in itself. Trails lead to the craters or peaks of the park’s five volcanoes, upward through the unique high vegetation zones of bamboo, hagenia-hypericum forests, giant lobelia and senecio, and finally to alpine meadows. Views from the top, which overlook the lush Rwandan valleys and into the Congo and Uganda, are spectacular.

Some travelers spend a day or two of gorilla searching interspersed with hikes to one or more of the volcanoes:
Karisimbi (14,786 ft./4,507 m), which is occasionally snowcapped, is Rwanda’s highest mountain. It is the most arduous ascent, requiring two days from the Visoke departure point. The night may be spent in a metal hut at about 12,000 feet (3,660 m).
Visoke (12,175 ft./3,711 m) has a beautiful crater lake and requires four hours of hiking, up a steep trail from the Visoke departure point, to reach the summit. The walk around the crater rim is highly recommended. Allow seven hours for the entire trip.
Lake Ngezi (9,843 ft./3,000 m), a small, shallow crater lake, is the easiest hike in the park; it takes only three to four hours round-trip from the Visoke departure point.
Sabyinyo (11,922 ft./3,634 m) can be climbed in five to six hours, starting at Park Headquarters near Kinigi. A metal hut is located just before you reach the lava beds. The final section is along a narrow rocky ridge with steep drops on both sides.
Gahinga (11,398 ft./3,474 m) and Muhabura (13,540 ft./4127 m) are both reached from the departure point at Gasiza. The trail rises to a hut in poor condition on the saddle between the two mountains. Gahinga’s summit can be reached in four hours, while two days are recommended to reach the summit of Muhabura.

A park guide must accompany each group, but porters are optional. Should you encounter gorillas on your hike, you may not leave the path to follow them. You may only track gorillas if you have previously purchased the proper permits.

Unfortunately, as of this writing, hiking in these mountains is not considered safe and may, in fact, not be allowed.

First Class: See “Gisenyi,” below. Gisenyi is about two hours by road to the gorilla trek points.
Tourist Class: * ASOFERWA Guest House, located within the park, has 15 simple rooms with ensuite facilities. * Hotel Muhabura is a very rustic hotel with 10 simple rooms and two pavilions with bathrooms ensuite, and a bar and dining room. The hotel is located about 10 miles (16 km) from Park Headquarters, which takes about 20 minutes to drive. * Travelers Rest, located in Kisoro, Uganda, has basic rooms with ensuite facilities. Some travelers overnight here and visit Parc des Volcans on day trips.
Camping: Campsites at Park Headquarters are near Kinigi, and cold shower and toilet facilities may be available. Beware of thieves.

Gisenyi is a picturesque resort on the northern shores of beautiful Lake Kivu. Lake Kivu has some nice, white beaches and is believed to have little or no bilharzias (a disease). Crocodiles are absent from the lake due to volcanic action, eons ago, that wiped them out. Beware, however, of rising sulpher gas, which can be fatal.

First Class: * Hotel Izuba has 68 double rooms and four suites with ensuite facilities and is a 90-minute drive from Volcano National Park. Situated on Lake Kivu, the hotel has a swimming pool, tennis courts and solarium. * Hotel Palm Beach has 22 rooms, some with ensuite facilities, and is located on the lakeshore drive.

Kibuye, located on Lake Kivu midway between Gisenyi and Cyangugu, is a small town with an attractive beach. Be sure not to miss the over-330-foot- (100 -m) high Ndaba Waterfall (Les Chutes des Ndaba), not far from Kibuye.

Tourist Class: * Centre Bethanie Mission has 24 rooms, half of which have facilities ensuite. * Kibuye Guest House is located on Lake Kivu and has 18 double rooms with private facilities, tennis courts and sports activities on the lake.

Uganda, once the “Pearl of the British Empire in East Africa,” is one of the most beautiful countries on the continent. One-sixth of its area is covered by water. Along its western boundary lie the Ruwenzori Mountains, Africa’s highest mountain range, and Ptolemy’s fabled “Mountains of the Moon.” The Ugandans claim the source of the Nile is at Jinja, where it leaves Lake Victoria.

The climate in Uganda is similar to Kenya except that Uganda is wetter. The driest times of the year are December-February and June-July, and the wettest is from mid-March to mid-May, with lighter rains October-November.

English is spoken as widely here as in Kenya or Tanzania. The main religions are Christianity and Islam.

In the eighteenth century, the Kingdom of Buganda became the most powerful in the region. Together with three other kingdoms, and several native communities, it was made a British Protectorate in 1893 and achieved independence in 1962.

Over 90% of the population is employed in agriculture, with coffee as the major export.

Uganda has been politically stable for over ten years. Nature-based tourism grew steadily in the 1990s, but collapsed almost overnight in 1999 when eight tourists were killed while tracking gorillas at the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park. The security situation at Bwindi and other parks on Uganda’s border with the Democratic Republic of the Congo was beefed-up after the incident and a permanent army presence has made it safe for travelers. Gorilla trekking at Bwindi is once again so popular that safaris should be booked well in advance.

Uganda’s tremendous diversity of wildlife is due to its situation at the junction of the East African savannahs, the West African rainforests and the semi-arid Sahelian zone of North Africa. There are 10 national parks and 15 wildlife reserves, but most are much smaller than those in Tanzania or Kenya. Clever planning of the parks and reserves has, however, resulted in most of the different habitats being conserved, enabling visitors to enjoy a wide variety of wildlife and nature experiences.

Primates, including gorillas, large numbers of chimpanzees and an array of smaller monkeys are a major attraction. The endemic Uganda kob (a beautiful antelope), as well as lion, leopard, elephant and giraffe inhabit the savannahs while the great wetlands are home to large numbers of hippo and crocodile.

Gorillas remain the greatest international attraction, and there is nothing comparable to the thrill of a close encounter with these magnificent, peaceful apes. Travelers from all over the world venture to Bwindi to experience these magnificent animals in their native environment.

Relative to its size, Uganda is the richest country for birds in Africa, with over 1000 species in an area the size of Great Britain. A wealth of hornbills, turacos, barbets, sunbirds, kingfishers, weavers and storks are present, as well as the bizarre and much sought-after shoebill.

A real advantage of parks in Uganda is that they are not anywhere near as crowed as those in Kenya or Tanzania. You meet very few other vehicles on game drives — in some cases, you even have the parks almost to yourself!

The major attraction of the 127-square-mile (330-km2) Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is the population of over 315 gorillas known to inhabit the park, that are in fact a different sub-species (yet to be named) from the mountain gorillas of Rwanda.

Bwindi is a forest of enormous hardwood trees, giant ferns, tangled undergrowth and hanging vines - the quintessential equatorial jungle. The size and altitudinal range of montane and lowland forests at Bwindi support more species of trees, ferns, birds and butterflies than any other forest in East Africa. It is also the only one which contains both chimpanzees and gorillas.

As of this writing, only two groups may be visited by up to six tourists per day. The Mbare Group (Group M) consists of about 15 gorillas, including one silverback. The Habinyanja Group (Group H) consists of 20 gorillas, including one silverback. The Nkuringo Group is presently in the process of being habituated by skilled trackers and, hopefully, will be suitable for visitation soon. Once found, visitors spend one hour with the gorillas.

Gorillas form themselves into fairly stable groups of 3–40. They are active by day and sleep in nests at night. Gorillas eat leaves, buds and tubers (like wild celery), and are continuously on the move, foraging for their favorite foods. They eat morning and afternoon, interspacing their dining habits with a midday
nap. Searching for gorillas can be likened to an adventurous game of “hide and seek” in which the guides know where they were yesterday but must find their trail again today and follow it. Finding gorillas can almost be guaranteed for those willing to hike one to four hours or more in search of them.

Each group of visitors is led by a park guide, an armed guard and one tracker. Porters may be hired to carry lunch, drinks, etc., and to assist anyone who may wish to return early. The search often involves climbing down into gullies, then pulling yourself up steep hills by holding onto vines and bamboo. Even though the pace is slow, you must be in good condition to keep up; the search may take you to altitudes of 3,800 to over 6,500 feet (1,160-1,982 m) or more. While this sounds difficult, almost anyone in good physical condition can do it.

The guide looks for nests used the night before, and then tracks them from that spot. Once the gorilla group has been located, he then calms them by making low grunting sounds and imitates them by picking and chewing bits of foliage. Juvenile gorillas are often found playing and tend to approach within a few feet of their human guests. Occasionally, our guides had to keep them from jumping into our laps!

Adult females are a little more cautious but may still approach within several feet. The dominant male, called a silverback because of the silvery-grey hair on his back, usually keeps more than 20 feet (6 m) from his human visitors.

In terms of sensitivity towards the great primates and to afford you the best chances of a close and relaxed encounter, simple gorillaviewing “etiquette” is critical. Never make eye contact with a silverback. If a silverback begins to act aggressively, look down immediately and take a submissive posture by squatting or sitting, or he may take your staring as aggression and charge. The key is to follow the directions of your well-trained guide. Gorillas are herbivores (vegetarians) and will not attack a human unless provoked. Your guides will instruct you not to touch the gorillas because they are susceptible to catching human colds and diseases.

Use 400 ASA film or higher, because gorillas are often found in the shadow of the forest. You will probably want to “push” 400 ASA to 800 ASA to get enough light. Many trekkers use 1000 and 1600 ASA films. Flash photography is not allowed because it will startle thegorillas. Bring several rolls of film on the trek — you very well may need them! Videos and digital cameras are highly recommended because they produce good results in low-light conditions. After
spending up to 60 minutes visiting with these magnificent animals, visitors descend to a more open area for a picnic lunch.

Mornings are almost always cool and misty; even if it doesn’t rain, you will undoubtedly get wet from hiking and crawling around wet vegetation. Wear a waterproof jacket or poncho (preferably Gortex), leather gloves to protect your hands from stinging nettles, waterproof light- or medium-weight hiking boots, to give you traction on muddy slopes and to keep your feet dry, and a hat. Bring a waterproof pouch for your camera and plenty of film, a water bottle and snacks. Do not wear bright clothes, perfumes, colognes or jewelry, because these distractions may excite the gorillas.

Visiting the gorillas is one of the most rewarding safaris in Africa. The park fees, which are among the highest in Africa, go toward the preservation of these magnificent, endangered creatures. Other primates resident in the Bwindi forest include chimpanzee, black-and-white colobus monkey, red colobus monkey, greycheeked mangabey, L’Hoest’s monkey and blue monkey. Other wildlife includes elephant, giant forest hog and duiker. Among the 345 species of birds recorded are the great blue turaco, yellow-eyed black flycatcher, Lühder’s bushshrike, vanga flycatcher, black-faced rufous-warbler, black-throated apalis, and elusive green broadbill.

Park Headquarters is based at Buhoma, a three-hour drive (67 mi./108 km) from Kabale. Because trekkers must be at the park by 8:30 a.m., it is necessary to overnight at a nearby guesthouse or permanent tented camp. Neither children under 15 years of age nor contagiously ill adults are allowed near the gorillas.

Class A: * Gorilla Forest Camp is a permanent tented camp, situated near the park at Buhoma, with eight tents with ensuite facilities.
Class B: * Mantana Safari Camp is a permanently based luxury mobile camp with ensuite bush shower (hot water) and long-drop toilet.
Class C: * Volcanoes Bwindi Camp, located about half a mile (1 km) from Park Headquarters, has eight tents with separate bush showers and short-drop toilets. * African Pearl Guest House has simple rooms with shared facilities.
Class D: * National Park bandas have rooms with separate facilities.
Camping: Campsites are available near the park entrance.

Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is situated on the slopes of Mts. Muhabura and Gahinga in the southwestern corner of Uganda, bordering Rwanda and the Congo.

A joint commission has been set up by Uganda, Rwanda and the Congo to protect the mountain gorilla in the Virunga Mountains where the borders of the three countries meet, and despite human conflict over the past decade, the population of gorillas has actually undergone a slight increase.

Because family troops have not been habituated and since families range across the political borders, Gorillas are much less likely to be sighted here than in Bwindi. While gorilla tracking is the main activity in this 12-square-mile (34-km2) reserve, other mammals such as the rare golden monkey (a subspecies of the blue monkey), buffalo, black-fronted duiker, leopard, golden cat and serval may be encountered. Birdlife is not prolific, however, gems such as the red-tufted malachite sunbird, white-starred robin and Ruwenzori turaco may be observed in this highland region.

Class C: * Mount Gahinga Rest Camp has four rondavels and three tents with private facilities
Class D: * Traveller’s Rest, situated about a two-hour drive from the park, has eight rooms and two suites with ensuite facilities. Many travelers taking day trips for gorilla trekking in Parc des Volcans in Rwanda overnight here.
Camping: By permission of the landowner. There are no facilities.